Kanchenjunga Trek

Day 01: Afternoon flight to Biratnagar. Overnight stay.

Day 02: Fly to Taplejung (35 minutes flight) our porters and trek crew will be waiting for us on arrival.

Day 03: A short first day’s stroll along the top of the ridge above Taplejung, descending to lunch at Lali Kharka (Kharka = grazing place) and on down to Tambawa to camp. About 4 hours’ walking. Here we will be sharing the trail with many devout Hindu pilgrims on their way to the temple at Pathi Bhara. Altitude at Tambawa – 2000 m.

Day 04: From Tambawa we can see the entire days’ walk in front of us. After traversing the hillside a short way, we descend again to the village of Pakora on the Phawa Khola, crossing a suspension bridge before beginning the steep climb up towards Kunjuri. Lunch will be taken somewhere below Kunjuri and the afternoons walk takes on up to camp at Khesewa, a short distance over the crest of the ridge. Our first views of Kanchanjunga are from here, and we can clearly make out the south and main summits along with Yalung kang. About 5 hours’ walk. Altitude at Khesewa – 2100m.

Day 05: From Kheswa the path traverses the steep mountainside through terraced fields high above the Kabbeli Khola. Some ups and downs as we cross several side valleys. There are many shady spots to rest on the way and after lunch at one of these we pass the village of Anpan, before descending to cross the Kashawa Khola in another suspension bridge and then, finally, we climb again through terraced fields to camp at the village of Mamankhe. En route we have our first glimpses of Jannu. Altitude at Mamankhe 2000 m. about 6 hours’ walking.

Day 06: Beginning with an easy climb, the walk to Yamphudin is along a trail, which contours the hilside above the Kabeli Khola. The path has several ups and downs as we cross the ridges and stream beds that make up the valley sides, but generally the route is flat and the river eventually becomes level with the trail a couple of hours before Yamphudin. At last we can stop for a bathe in one of the many clear pools in this beautiful river. It is a truly idyllic spot and after lunch by the river we complete the day’s walk to Yamphudin. At 1650 m. this is the most remotye settlement in the area and the last habitation we well see until we reach Ghunsa. Needles to sy, it is a charming place tucked away beneath the ridge of the Deorali Danda, which we must cross next. About 5 hours’ walking.

Day 07: Beyond Ymphudin the trail ascends a steep spur before dropping again to cross the Omje Khola. Walking through beautiful and dense forest, we stop for lunch in a meadow atop this spur, which commands fine views of the valley beyond Yamphudin to the south and of the Omje Khola Valley and Deorali Danda (ridge) to the north. A steep descends to the river and an interesting bridge across the river brings us to our camp in a clearing in the jungle. About 3 hours’ walking.

Day 08: It is 3 hours of very steep ascent from our camp to the crest of the Deorali Danda, in dense jungle all the way except for a couple of kharkas en route. After crossing the pass at 3230m. We descend across some fairly steep and exposed scree before entering the forest again, where we take lunch. From the top Jannu is clearly visible and definitely closer! A steep descent follows, down into the valley of the Simjua Khola. Across tanoterh ‘interesting’ wooden bridge and we are soon at campsite at Torontan. Amongst the towering firs of what is now a mainly coniferous alpine forest. About 7 hours’ walk. Altitude at Torontan 3080m.

Day 09: Following the true Right Bank of the river, this is blissful days’ walk through the pine and rhododendron forests. The valley floor climbs fairly steeply and as the day progresses the trees become more stunted and widespread, giving us glimpses of the snow-capped giants ahead and of the massive snout of Yalung Glacier. Just before Tseram the towering heights of Kabru and Rathong start to peep over the moraine, whilst at night the temperature plummets to remind us that we are really gaining height. About 5 hours’ walking. Altitude at Tseram 3750m.

Day 10: short days’ walk up the final 600 to Ramze. The scenery is magnificent as we ascend past snout of the Yalung Glacier into a series of ablation valleys which give easy walking frozen lake, clear streams and views of koktang, Rathong and Kabru are the highlights of this stroll into camp at Ramze – a broad, flat ablation zone at 4360m.

Day 11: Leaving our camp set up at Ramze, we can take a packed lunch and set off very early for our first close encounter with Kanchajunga. Following the ablation valley round its sweeping curve, we are suddenly confronted with the southern wall of the mountain. It is vast – a ridge forming a cirque over 15 km long, which is nowhere less than 7500m. high and with the three main  summits of Kanchanjunga at 8420, 8474m. It si breathtaking. Proceeding on up to Oktang at 4630m, we may then descend onto the glacier and cross it to a point below Talu from where we can see all the mountains of the area in panorama. Especially impressive is the East Kumbhakarma Glacier flowing from the east face of Jannu (Kumbhakarna is the local name for Jannu). We then return to our camp at Ramze.

Day 12: We retreat from Ramze down valley, passin Lapsang and the turn off towards the Lapsang La to reach Ghunsa and north side of Kanchanjunga. However, in the last couple of years we have found that the more southerly route, across the Mirgin La is simply magnificent. We make camp beyond the pass.

Day 13: A steep descent from our campsite brings us to Lamba Sumba Kharka where there are more splendid views of the awesome Southwest Face of Jannu – a taste of things to come! From Lumba Sumjba the going is easy again as we stroll on down an excellent trail to the village of Ghunsa, where we camp in fallow fields by the river. Ghunsa is a Tibetan village with a tiny gompa and prayer flags fluttering from jthe wooden houses. A welcome sight after the rigorous of the previous day and an excellent opportunity to visit a local hostelry and sample tungba (hot alcoholic beverage prepared fropm fermented pulverized millet – drunk from large jugs through straws called pipsing!) 4 hours’ walk. Altitude Ghunsa 3475m.

Day 14: From Ghunsa the trail ascends gently through beautiful pine and rhododendron forests, passing many walls and chortens – welcome remainders of the local peoples’ Buddhist faith. After stopping for lunch by the river at Rampak Kharka, the afternoon’s walk is steep climb up the mountainside in front of us and a descent ot camp at the summer village of Kambachen. The views of Jannu from here are stupendous! About 5 hours’ walk. Altitude at Kambachen 4130m.

Day 15: Fortunately the trek up to Lhonak via Ramtang is not too strenuous and despite the increase in altitude we are able to stroll along taking in the incredible views, as jkone by one the peaks are revealed. Our lunch stop is at Ramtang, from where the incredible fluted summit of wedge Peak first becomes visible and during the afternoon Nepal Peak, the Twins, Mera and White wave all come into view. The campsite aty Lhonak is on a grassy plain perched high above the Kandchanjunga Glacier opposite Wedge Peak – exposed to the icy wind, but the view more than compensates for the chill! About 5 hour’s walk. Altitude at Lhonak 4780m.

Day 16: It is only a short walk up to Pang Pema Lhonak, but one which we take at a very leisurely ace due to the altitude and the need to stop every five minutes to take photographs. The trail climbs through some hilly ground before finally reaching Pang Pema, which is in a sheltered spot right opposite the towering North Face of Kangchenjunga, This has to be one of the most spectacular campsites in the World! A fitting climax to this unique trek. About 3 hours’ walk. Altitude at Pang Pema 5150m.

Day 17: At leisure at Pang Pema. For the more energetic amongst us there are several possibilities for day walks. One is to ascend the lower slopes of Drohmo (it looks easy, but beware of the altitude – up to 6000m is possible and you soon find you panting) for panorama views of Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks. Another possibility is to continue up the increasingly difficult terrain on the right flank of the glacier for a couple of hours for views of the more remote peaks around the Jongsang La.

Day 18 - 22: Retreat to Ghunsa, camping overnight at Ramgtang or Kanbachen on route.

Day 23: Our way of the mountains from Ghuinsa follows the beautiful Ghunsa and Tamur Kholas and the first day’s walk is through a spectacular forest of rhododendron, conifer birch and oak. The Valley sides are steep her abouts and after passing the village the trail descends fairly steeply, following the river as it cascades downwards. The last of the Tibetan villages is Kyapra and we camp in the forest at a spot called Tang, an hour or so past Kyapra. About five 5 hours walk. Altitude at Tang 2300m.

Day 24: Heading for the village of Sakathom, our route follows an undulating trail for the first couple of hours until we reach Amjillasa, after which there is a long steep descent from which we can see the Ghunsa Khola Valley stretched out before us. Camp in the fields by Sakathom at an altitude of 1600m. About 5 hours’ walking.

Day 25: An easy day. Just outside Sakathom we come to the confluence of three rivers- flowing in from our left is the Simbu Khola (Which we followed up to Ramze) and from our right, the Tamur Khola which issues from the still closed Walunchung Gola area. The three rivers combine to from a mighty stream – the Tamur – that we now follow. There are plenty of spots for bathing in the numerous small tributaries streams which we cross before reaching Chirwa. About 4 hour’ walk. Altitude 1180m and the heat and humidity increase!

Day 26: Walking through ever more populated and cultivated lands, our route brings us to lunch at Mitlung after 3 hours, where we stop for lunch. From here the trail starts the long ascent back up towards Taplejung and our camp is reached after another hour – quite enough in the stultifying heat of the valley floor.

Day 27: A further three hours’ ascent brings us to Taplejung (the porters will go via a more direct route straight to the airstrip at Suketar) where we take lunch and Tungba at the renowned Namge Lodge- a Tibetan hostelry on the outskirts of town. There is time enough to wander through the fascinating bazaar before setting off up the final ascent (about 2 hours) to the airstrip. The small lodge by the ‘airport’ also does an excellent tuba for those who have developed a taste for this excellent beverage.

Day 28: Sadly, we say good-bye to our porters and trek crew here, as they must walk out to Basantapur with the tents etc. We board the RNAC Twin Otter aircraft for the flight back to Biratnagar and then the connecting Avro service back to Kathmandu. Transfer to the Hotel for the long awaited bath and a peep in the mirror (a shock for some).