Chulu East

DAY 01:KATHMANDU TO GORKHA  & DARAUDI KHOLA
We set off early from Kathmandu and travel by private bus along the Kathmandu – Pokhara highway following the Trisuli river. Soon after Mugling, we turn off this road and head to Gorkha, the original home of the Gurkha soldiers. The journey takes about 5-6 hours from Kathmandu, and once we have sorted out our gear we begin trekking with a short walk of 1-2 hours towards our campoing spot, camping by the Daraundi Khola.

DAY 02:DARAUDI KHOLA PALUNGTAR
Our first full days trekking is not difficult, crossing a number of streams and walking partly through forests and rice fields. It is important to wear a good sum hat for protection against the heat where there is no shade. Our camp at Palungtar will provide tremendous views of the Annapurna and Manasly range of mountains.

DAY 03:PALUNGTAR TO UDIPUR: (2,700ft. /824m.)
The trail continues Northward up the Marshyangdi Valley with Himalchuli and Peak 29 dominating the horizon. The valley is noticeably changing now to become a deep river gorge. We continue on the left bank of the Marshyandi, stopping for lunch soon after the village of Besisahar by the banks of the Pam Khola. At Bhul Bhule we cross to the Right Bank of the Marshyuangdi on a long suspension bridge. We camp a little further along the trail at a beautiful setting on the shore of the Marshyangdi.

DAY 05: BHUL BHULE TO JAGAT (4,400ft. /1343m.)
Corn begins to replace rice cultivation and we pass many crashing waterfalls as the valley narrows. It is a steep climb up to Bahundanda (“Brahmin Hill”), the Northern-most Brahmin settlement in the valley. From here the trail descends steeply through rice terraces, then in and out of side canyons before crossing the Marshyangdi on a long suspension bridge at Syange (3,725ft. / 1136m.). The trail climbs high above the river on the steep West Bank, which is forested with rhododendrons and pine. Because of the steepness of the valley, villages in this region are infrequent, and are suitable places to camp. Jagat is a small village with a mediaeval atmosphere inhabited by people of Tibetan ancestry.

DAY 06: JAGAT TO DHARAPANI (6,375ft. /1946m.)
From Jagat the trail continues to climb through forests to Chyamje. Following the East bank of the Marshyangdi the tril climbs gradually before the valley suddenly opens into a large plateau at Tal (4,950ft. / 1511m.), the site of an ancient lake bed. We will probably stop for lunch here. Corn, barley and potatoes are grown in this area. After crossing the broad flat valley the trail climbs steeply on a stone staircase high above the river. There are some steep ups and downs on this section, passing through forests of blue pine before descending to a suspension bridge. From here the trail climbs to a stone archway or kani, marking the entrance to Dharapani.

DAY 07:DHARAPANI TO CHAME (8,793ft. /2685m
From Dharapani the trail passes a school and climbs over a spur before descending to Bagarchhap, the first village with typical Tibetan buildings and examples of Bhuddhist culture including a gompa (monastery), prayer wheels and entrance chortens (monuments) at both ends of the village. The path enters a narrow forested gorge, looking back we have a magnificent view of Manaslu. As we proceed the trail continues through Temung and the hamlets of Charku and Thangla. As we continue on to Burdhan, views of the Annapurna range become more extensive, with Annapurna II, looking particularly splendid. At Chame, the administrative headquarters of the Manang district, there are small pools along the side of the river where hot springs bubble through.

DAY 08:CHAME TO PISANG (10,480ft. / 3200m.)
We follow the East bank of the Marshyangdi to Brathang, here Annapurna II is directly above. Continuing through forests to a wide valley, with the dramatic Paungda Danda rock face rising more than 5,000ft. From the river. There are good views of Annapurna II, to the south and Pisang Peak to the NorthEast. The trail continues to Pisang where flat roofed houses cling to the crumbling hillside. We will camp a little away beyond Pisang, in the forest on the South bank of the river, which provides good shelter against the cold wind, which very often blows up the valley.

DAY 09:PISANG TO JULU (11,462ft. /3500m.)
We continue along the valley trail from lower Pisang, climbing to a pass which gives extensive views up the Manang Valley. At Hongde we leave the main trail and begin our ascent of the little visited Cheggi Khola valley. A gentle ascent through scattered chortens, scrub juniper and stunted pines takes us to the small hamlet to Julu. Sitting on the West Bank of the river, ten houses with an entrance kani form this compact community. Half the dwellings are permanently occupied, the others being a summer annex for the people of Manang. A cunning irrigation system allows a healthy collection of fruit trees to survive the arid rain shadow of the Annapurna massif.

Day 10: JULU TO YAK KHARKA (3750m)
From Julu, we re cross the Cheggi Khola and climb gently up the West Bank. After about an hour we come to the valley’s final house, a seasonally occupied stone hut surrounded by apple trees. From this point, we have a stunning view up the side valley that reaches up towards Chulu West. The valley floor is interrupted by a sheer 500-ft ckiff with fianal trees before emerging at a small meadow. Here Ox and wild mountain goats graze together and we pitch camp for the night. This is a short day and we arrive in camp in time for a leisurely lunch and gazing across to the now stunning views, a myriad of snow capped peaks stretching as far as the eye can see.

Day 11 YAK KHARKA TO BASE CAMP (4200m)
Another short day, allowing for optimum acclimatization. Our route takes us through steep pastures to a convenient hollow where meadow merges into rock and scree. This will be our base camp. High above we can see the site of our high camp and looking out across the main valley, we now have a birds eye view of the skyward thrust of Annapurnas.

DAY 12 AT BASE CAMP
A rest day to aid acclimatization and sort out our gear.

DAYs 13/14/15
Base Camp to High Camp (5000m). Chulu East summit.

DAY 16
Those who a re well acclimatized move up to our high camp, sitting at the top of the terminal moraine of the Chulu glacier. It is a stiff pull up scree and snow slopes, but we arrive in plenty of time to relax, prepare equipment and strategies for the next day.
Our objective dominates the scene and demands our attention again. Porters will carry food, tents and equipment up to high camp and return to base camp. Two days have been set aside for the climb of Chulu East (6200m). A down start across the glacier takes us across to the snow and ice slopes that guard the flanks of the south ridge. We tackle these by a direct line up the West Side to arrive on the spectacular ridge at a small subsidiary summit. The ridge is exposed but not technical and in and in every direction new peaks crowd our horizon as we gain height. Eventually we run out of mountains at a small snow dome with steep slopes falling away on all sides. Our high camp has diminished to toy-town stature it truly feels like the roof of the world. After savoring our precious and hard won summit experience, we descend abseiling the steepest section of the ice slope, to congratulations and copious supplies of tea at high camp. Rested dehydrated and supremely fulfilled, the descent to base camp passes quickly.

DAY17. BASE CAMP TO MANANG (3511m)
Return to the main trail and head towards Manang via Bragga. We have excellent views of the Annapurna II, III, IV, Gangapurna and Glacier Dome, and the huge ice fall descending from the Northern slopes of Gangapurna is quiite spectacular. Manang is fascinating medieval village of just over 500 flat- roofed houses whose entrances are reached from the narrow alleyways by ascending a steep log, notched with steps.

DAY18 MANANG TO PHEDI-THORUNG BASE CAMP (4427m)
Looking back as we climb out of the Marshyangdi valley we has tremendous views of Manaslu, the Annapurnas, tilicho peak and the Great barrier. We head NorthWest up the jarsang Khola, through scrub juniper and alpine grasses to arrive at Leader for lunch. From Leader, we continue on the East bank of Jjarsang Khola, before crossing on a covered bridge. The trail climbs on scree slopes high above the river to Phedi, a single stone building set among near vertical cliffs.

DAY19 PHEDI TO MUKTINATH (3694m)
An early start from Phedi, the trail becomes steep immediately on leaving camp. As local people has used this trail for hundreds of years the path is well defined. After a while, the gradient eases and it is a steady walk to the chorten and cairns of the Thorung pass at 17 770 ft., which we reach in about 4 hours time. The views are dramatic. Stretching below is the head of the Kali Gandaki valley ans the brown, purple hills of Mustang leading to Tibet. Across the valley is the Tibetan marginal range of mountains and either side the pass tower twin 21,270 ft peaks. The descent to Muktinath is steep and long 5000ft of knee jerking descent.

DAY 20 MUKTINATH TO MARPHA (2665m)
We now begin the descent down the dramatic Kali Gandaki valley, initially through arid country in the same geographical and climatic zone as Tibet. After passing thropugh Jharkot and Khingar, villages with typical Tibetan architecture, we follow

DAY 21 MARPHA TO LETE (8,090ft. / 2470m.)
We continue descending the Kali Gandaki to Tukche, another important Thakali village. From Tukche we follow the West Bank of the kali Gandaki to Larjung. Here narrow alleywayys and tunnels connect houses with enclosed courtyards, providding protection against the winds blowing up the valley. We climb through pine, juniper and cypress forests, crossing the river before reaching Kalapani with fine views of Annapurna I (26,545ft.) and the Fang (25,043ft.). Twenty minutes beyond Kalapani lies Lete, from here the trail branches off to the base camp used by Herzog’s first ascent of Annapurna.

DAY 22 LETE TO TATOPANI (3,800ft. / 1160m.)
Our trail descends steeply through forests to Ghasa, the last Thakali village and the Southern-most limit of Lama Buddhism. Soon after Ghasa, we enter the steepest and narrowest part of the gorge. At Dana, a mostly Magar village, the large peak of Annapurna South (23,680ft.) can be seen across the valley. The trail then descends to Tatopani where apple pie awaits and we can bathe in Hot Springs at the side of the river.

DAY 23   TATOPANI TO GHOREPANI (9,280ft. /2833m.)
A short distance down stream from Tatopani, the trail crosses the river on a large suspension bridge, we leave the Kali Gandaki and begin the 5,000ft. climb to the pass at Ghorepani. The trail climbs steeply for about 1300ft. then becomes more gradual through Ghara and on to Sikha, both Magar villages. Continuing through rhododendron forests to the pass, where there are excellent views of Dhaulagiri (26, 795ft.), the Nilgiris (23,166ft.), Annapurna I (26,545ft.), Annapurna South (23,680ft.), Hiunchuli (21,130ft.) and Glacier Dome (23,191ft.).

DAY 24 GHOREPANI TO BIRETHANTI (3,500ft. / 1069m.)
An early morning excurion can be made to the top of Poon Hill (10,457ft.) for even more impressive views of the mountains at sunrise. After breakfast, we begin the long descent to the Modi Khola valley, through magnificent rhododendron forests. Birethanti is situated on ther banks of the Modi Khola, the valley leading to the Annapurna Sanctuary.

Day 25. BIRETHANTI TO POHARA (2,900ft. / 885m.)
We cross the Modi Khola on a suspension bridge then begin a steep switch- backing ascent to Chandrakot. From the ridge we have excellent views of Annapurna Soputh and Hiunchuli and to the right of the odi Khola rises Machhapuchhare (22,942ft.)’ the fishtail mountain. Ascending steep stone stairs we pass through Lumle before climbing again to a ridge crest at Khare and continuing to Naudanda. From here we descend to Phedi in the Yamdi Khola valley where our trek ends and a bus takes us the short way to Pokhara. Our last night’s camp is by the shores of Phewa tal. There’s time to explore Pokhara, perhaps shopping for souvenirs from the Tibetan traders and maybe taking a boat out onto Phewatal to watch the sun set over the distant snow-capped peaks.

DAY 26 POKHARA TO KATHMANDU (5,000ft. / 1526m.)
Fly back from Pokhara to Katmandu.